Written By: Naomi Nakajima, Founder of N-NAKA LAB
The Future Fabrics Expo took place June 24-25 in Brussels, Belgium. The show, coordinated by The Sustainable Angle, is the largest dedicated showcase for sourcing certified, sustainably and responsibly produced materials. Over 3000 visitors explored 100+ exhibitors and attended seminar series featuring more than 60 industry expert speakers. The discussions spanned everything from decarbonized supply chains and scaling sustainable solutions to regenerative agriculture and policy-driven corporate action.
And it all took place during a record-breaking heat wave. The heat was a blunt reminder of why we were there, bringing a critical question to the surface: Will these solutions happen fast enough, and at a large enough scale, to make a difference in time?
Image Credits: The Sustainable Angle.
Material Spotlight
The exhibition floor showcased some incredible breakthroughs, but three innovators particularly stood out for how they solve real-world design challenges:
Celmure by Mycel: A 100% bio-based material grown through mycelium cultivation.
Why this stands out: Unlike many other leather and synthetic alternatives that rely on a polyurethane (PU) coating which ultimately prevents them from being recycled or biodegrading, Celmure is completely bio-based and biodegradable.
Piñayarn by Ananas Anam: A pineapple fiber based textile sourced from agricultural waste.
Why this stands out: This yarn utilizes the leftover pineapple leaves from farming that are typically burned as agricultural waste. By rescuing this byproduct, it is estimated to prevent up to 6kg of CO2 emissions per 1kg of yarn produced.
Ozonyl by OzoneBio: A bio-based Nylon, created from wood-derived bio-adipic acid.
Why this stands out: True stretch is notoriously difficult to find in the next-gen material space. A high-performing bio-based nylon has massive potential to disrupt underwear, activewear, and performance design if it can truly compete with the durability of conventional synthetics.
On display, brand collaborations with material innovators such as Oncemore x AVAVAV, Säntis x Stella McCartney, BioFluff x Balag Couture, and WTRLSS x Triarchy. Image Credits: The Sustainable Angle.
The Path to Scaling Next-Gen
The physical reality of the heatwave underscored the urgent need to move these materials from niche exhibition booths into mass production. During seminar panel “Scaling Next-Gen Materials: from Collaboration to Implementation”, speakers Femke Jonkmans (Fashion for Good), Päivi Eräpuu (Armed Angels), Nina Elmersson (Challenge the Fabric), Mikko Lassila (Spinnova), and Valerie Langer (Canopy) shared practical insights on how brands can actually succeed in adopting these fabrics:
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Drop the ego: Start collaborating rather than hiding information to “compete”. With consolidated demand and shared data, we can build the economies of scale needed to lower costs for everyone.
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Don’t reinvent the wheel: Don’t waste time starting your material research from scratch. Leverage existing resources and networks like Fashion for Good and the Global Fashion Agenda to ease the transition.
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Something is better than nothing: Adopting next-gen materials can be expensive and logistically daunting. Demanding a flawless, 100% sustainable supply chain right out of the gate paralyzes progress. Incrementally shifting your fiber content is far better than waiting for perfection.
The takeaway is clear: the industry cannot fix its emissions problem if everyone works in isolation. This sentiment is the exact philosophy that led me to create N-NAKA Lab.
Images courtesy of N-NAKA Lab.
In designing my own collections using next-gen materials, I discovered firsthand how complicated it was to work with and market products using materials that barely any other brands or manufacturers had touched before. I realized that moving slower, having higher costs, and needing to educate buyers were additional barriers that prevent me from competing with conventional brands. By building a community of forward-thinking brands and material innovators, we aim to lower the barriers to next-gen adoption.
If the European heatwave proved anything, it’s that the future of fashion depends entirely on our ability to work together.
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Naomi Nakajima is the founder of N-NAKA Lab, a New York based brand and consultancy that specializes in introducing and scaling the use of next-gen materials in fashion. She brings over 5 years experience across research, product development, and design to bridge the gap between science and real-world implementation.
She was recently featured during Berlin Fashion Week for her work designing a motorcycle jacket using new material innovations MIRUM and STITCHLOCK in partnership with VORN and Zalando. Her work was mentioned in Vogue Italia, Fashion United, and other publications.
N-NAKA Lab Vogue Italia Feature. Images Courtesy of N-NAKA Lab.
Follow N-NAKA Lab on Instagram: @nnaka.lab
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