Black fashion has historically been rooted in resistance against oppression, political activism and culture. Black fashion history highlights the immense, often under-recognized influence of Black designers, models, and global culture across modern, streetwear, and luxury fashion.
Style has long functioned as political expression. Enslaved Africans reclaimed identity through headwraps and textile traditions. Fashion was integral to the Civil Rights and Black Power movements through Afros, Pan-African colors, and Black Panther uniforms that symbolized pride and resistance.
During Reconstruction, the tradition of “Sunday Best” asserted dignity in the face of dehumanization, while figures like Elizabeth Keckley and Ann Lowe quietly shaped the highest levels of American couture - often without the appropriate recognition.
The Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s-1930s was a vibrant expression of Black cultural pride through modern styles of flapper dresses, feathered headbands, and tailored zoot suits.
Today, with Black consumer spending projected to reach $70 billion by 2030, that influence is not only cultural but economic. This reinforces the urgency of crediting Black innovation and condemning any erasure of its longstanding contributions.
In honor of Black History Month, we’re honoring the following Black fashion industry leaders.
CREATIVE DIRECTORS
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh is a revolutionary figure in the fashion industry. He bridged the gap between streetwear, high fashion, and art while bringing skate and street culture aesthetics into luxury houses. Virgil was Louis Vuitton’s first Black artistic director and the founder of Off-White.
Virgil actively used his platforms to empower young designers and fashion creatives, particularly those of color through mentorship, scholarships, and the creation of his “Free Game” guide.
A significant contribution to the fashion industry includes his popularization of the “3% Rule” - where Virgil argues changing an existing design by only 3% can create something entirely new and meaningful.
Beyond fashion, Abloh was described as multi-hyphenate individual working as a DJ, artist, and architect.
Virgil’s passing in 2021 from cancer was mourned across the industry. Resale prices for his collaborations (including the Nike Air Jordan 1s) skyrocketed immediately following the news with some listings over $10,000.
Virgil Abloh + Nike Air Jordans. Image sourced via Pinterest.
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner is a British-Jamaican designer who was appointed as the Creative Director of Menswear at Hermès in October 2025. She is the first Black woman to lead a major European luxury fashion house. Her debut collection for Hermès is scheduled to be presented in January 2027.
Grace succeeds previous creative director Véronique Nichanian, who held a 37 year long career.
She redefines luxury fashion by centering her designs in Black intellectualism, African diasporic histories, and through blending European and Afro-Atlantic aesthetics.
Grace Wales Bonner has her own namesake label ‘Wales Bonner’ that was launched in 2014 after she graduated from Central Saint Martins. Accolades include winning the 2016 LVMH Young Designer Prize, CFDA awarding her as International Men’s Designer of the Year in 2021, and winning the 2024 British Menswear Designer of the Year.
Her industry impact is seen as a historic shift toward greater diversity within luxury fashion leadership.
Grace Wales Bonner. Image sourced via Pinterest.
Olivier Rousteing
Olivier Rousteing is a Somali-Ethiopian designer who served as Balmain’s creative director for 14 years - stepping down in November of 2025. At age 25, he became the youngest non-founding designer to lead a major Parisian fashion house since Yves Saint Laurent.
The Faberge Fall 2012 collection remains one of Rousteing’s most iconic history with Balmain, with the designs being reintroduced on multiple occasions.
Sources: CR Fashion Book, Revolt.tv, Istitutomarangoni, Vogue
MODELS
Donyale Luna for British Vogue / March 1966. Image sourced via Pinterest.
Donyale Luna was the first Black model on the cover of British Vogue magazine in March 1966, photographed by David Bailey. Her cover appearance disrupted major racial barriers in the 1960s.
In 1974, Beverly Johnson became the first Black model on the cover of American Vogue.
Most recently, Sudanese-American supermodel Anok Yai was named Model of the Year at the 2025 Fashion Awards.
Anok Yai was born in South Sudan and immigrated to the US with her family as a toddler.
Her career began in 2017 at age 19 when she was discovered by street-style photographer Steven Hall while attending Howard University’s homecoming. At the time, she was a sophomore at Plymouth State University studying biochemistry.
Hall’s photo went viral on Instagram and led to Anok Yai’s contract with Next Model Management. Four months after being scouted, she became the first Sudanese model to open a Prada fashion show.
Model of the Year 2025 Anok Yai. Image sourced via Pinterest.
In an interview with W Magazine, Anok Yai reflected on her early dreams of modeling and the fashion industry:
“I always wanted to get into fashion but couldn’t afford to go to New York. I got scouted multiple times at the mall, or was prodded by my friends at school who were at modeling agencies, and I kept saying no. I always had this feeling that something bigger was coming for me.”
Today, Anok Yai is recognized globally as a successful supermodel who has walked thousands of runway shows.
Sources: Vogue, W Magazine
FASHION DESIGNERS
Zelda Wynn Valdes was the first Black designer to open her own shop on Broadway in 1948. She is further recognized as the creator of the Playboy Bunny costume.
Original Playboy Bunny designs by Zelda Wynn Valdes. Image sourced via Pinterest.
Elizabeth Keckley (1818-1907) was a former enslaved woman who became a successful seamstress, activist, and writer. She was recognized as the personal dressmaker for Mary Todd Lincoln.
Ann Lowe (1898-1981) was the first Black woman to own a store on Madison Avenue and was the personal designer for Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding.
Dapper Dan is a Harlem-based designer known for revolutionizing luxury fashion in the 1980s-1990s by fusing high-end designer logos including Gucci, MCM, and Louis Vuitton with hip-hop style.
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